My
how times have changed... A wealthy woman in the 1950s would have had a
private viewing of a couture designer collection and up to three
fittings to ensure a perfect fit. Nearly all clothing today, designer
or otherwise, is sold directly off the rack. The last two decades in
particular have had a major impact on Haute Couture and it's most
impressive how the great fashion houses have responded. They've
succeeded in earning billions while preserving the fundamentals of
fashion as art.
The
cost of producing haute couture along with a decline in buyers created
a dilemma for the houses. After WWII, there was an estimated regular
international clientele of 20,000; mostly socialites and celebrities.
In fact, some women like the Duchess of Windsor would order whole
collections at a time. Today the number is about 3,000 of which only
200 are regular customers. The fournisseurs employed at the ateliers
(workshops like the famous House of Lesage) are very expensive. These
artisans complete the decorative touches such as highly specialized
embroidery and ornamental flowers. Designers still depend on the
handwork of the ateliers despite their costs and the lack of buyers due
to price tags upwards of $25,000 for a suit and over $150,000 for an
evening gown. Understandably, fewer couture garments are being produced
today. Dior, for example, makes only twenty couture bridal gowns a year.
The
rising demand for prêt-à-porter or ready-to-wear designer labels was a
great boost as these cost less for the houses to produce and were far
more affordable for buyers. At Lesage today, 80% of work is done for
ready-to-wear and just 20% for haute couture. Desrues, maker of costume
jewelry for the likes of Louis Vuitton and Lanvin, produces a million
buttons a year for Chanel alone of which only 3,000 are used for haute
couture. The ateliers have certainly felt the effects. In the 1920's,
there were about 10,000 embroiderers in France - today about 200.
Consider too the increasing number of houses who outsource cheap labor
overseas. Famous labels such as Coach and Dolce and Gabbana are now
made in China and rather than pay the high prices the French ateliers
command, some designers like Jean Paul Gaultier are having their
handwork done in India. 
What
primarily funds haute couture now is the essential licensing. The great
fashion houses rake in profits by stamping their labels on a wide range
of beauty products; perfume, cosmetics, jewelry and accessories. The
reasoning is that, for example, while the average woman may not be able
to afford couture Chanel, she can buy a bottle of Chanel Number 5, a
scarf or a ready-to-wear Chanel dress. These profits are what enable
the houses to continue producing their otherworldly collections despite
the monetary losses.Interestingly, the cost of fashion shows can go as high as a few million dollars even though very few of the designs shown each season are actually sold. Francois Lesage said, "The couture dress is unique and may never even be made to order. It's to attest to the quality of the house and to advertise for the brand. It is a dream of quality with no consideration of cost." For further promotion the houses will loan clothes to movie stars and other public figures.
Buyers'
attitudes have also changed in that the client who once remained loyal
to only one designer will now buy from many designers to create their
desired look. Also, today's approach to dressing leans more toward
personal preference rather than the "must have" ideal of yesteryear.
It's of no consequence to see a woman wearing a chic suit standing next
to another wearing a pair of tights with thigh high boots at the same
function. It's little wonder that the vintage clothing market is
continually on the rise for it represents a time when the couture
houses dictated all style. What's on the cover of Vogue now is no
longer de rigeur. So why do they continue in this profitless pursuit of Haute Couture? In a word, passion. Fashion is art, both magical and surreal, from the sophisticated Dior to some of the bizarre creations of Schiaparelli. Fashion is a wondrous form of escape that has filled the fantasies of women worldwide for centuries. The 1750s woman would have yearned for a silk ball gown as much as the 1950s woman for a mink coat. Designer labels represent glamour, wealth and luxury and just one small purchase will make you believe you are part of that exclusive world. So go ahead and treat yourself to that LV bag and then pretend you have reservations at Spago. Ahhh, a chance to dream...
